Day 210: swell turned up
The swell turned up yesterday. I tried to remember back to the last time it was here. I couldn’t. We had been surfing waist to shoulder height waves for what seems like months. So I paddled out, aware of a wave-starved crowd. Much to my surprise one of the better waves came straight me. I spun around and started pulling through the water. Within a few seconds the wave was carrying me, I was on my feet and the long open face became a blank canvas for me to draw lines on.
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